Plan

Twenty-six lanes under a low ceiling on 37th Street, family run, with a bar at the end where the bartender has worked for decades and will talk to you about the neighborhood. League nights fill the place and the rest of the time you can walk in and take a lane. Arcade cabinets along the wall, cheap pitchers, no attempt at a concept.

Mon to Thu and Sun, 9am to midnight. Fri and Sat, 9am to 1am

Started as a truck parked on Fifth Avenue and grew into a sit-down place on Fourth, with the truck still working the street. Tacos with cilantro and onion, cabeza and lengua alongside the safer fillings, and a salsa bar you help yourself from. The dining area is fluorescent and plain and the kitchen runs to 1am on weeknights.

Mon to Thu and Sun, 11am to 1am. Fri and Sat, 11am to 2am