Food in Coney Island

A counter with no seating at the western end of Brighton Beach Avenue, turning out khachapuri in several shapes along with a chocolate and walnut cake stacked absurdly high. The savory pastry to ask for is the bacon twist with tarragon and dill baked into the layers. Know what you want before you reach the front, because the regulars behind you do.

Daily, 9:30am to 9pm

Open on Nostrand Avenue since 1938, selling a roast beef sandwich that gets dunked in the drippings before it reaches you, with a cup of the same broth on the side. The building looks like a roadhouse dropped into Sheepshead Bay and the interior is dark wood and booths. You can eat at the counter in ten minutes or sit down with a beer.

Sun to Thu, 11am to 11pm. Fri and Sat, 11am to midnight

Trays of baklava in the window, cut into squares and diamonds and rolled into cylinders with pistachio packed end to end. You order by the piece or by weight at the counter and there is tea and Turkish coffee if you want to stay. It sits on the Turkish and Central Asian stretch of Brighton Beach Avenue rather than the Russian one.

Daily, 11am to 7pm. Listings disagree and some post 7am to 7pm

A Neapolitan dining hall that the Gargiulo family opened on West 15th Street in 1907 and the Russo family has run since 1965, two doors up the same block from Paradise Coney Island. Waiters in jackets, clam sauce and veal, and a nightly wheel spin that can knock the bill down to nothing. It is a sit-down meal in a part of Coney Island where almost everything else is a window.

Mon, Wed and Thu, noon to 9:30pm. Fri and Sat, noon to 10:30pm. Sun, noon to 9pm. Closed Tuesday

Uyghur cooking at the eastern end of Brighton Beach Avenue, which means hand-pulled laghman noodles and lamb off a skewer rather than anything Russian. The lagman arrives in a bowl of broth with the noodles still tightening. It is a small plain place and it stays open later than most of the strip.

Mon to Thu, 10am to 10pm. Fri, 10am to 11pm. Sat and Sun, 10am to 11:45pm

Ludovico Barbati started selling pizza off a horse cart in 1939 and the family has been on this corner of 86th Street ever since. The Sicilian square goes sauce on top of the cheese, which is the reason people come, and the spumoni comes out of a separate window next door in chocolate, pistachio and vanilla. There is a sit-down side and a counter side, and picnic tables out front that stay in use until the 11:30pm close.

Daily, 11am to 11:30pm

Nathan Handwerker opened this stand at Surf and Stillwell in 1916 after leaving a job slicing rolls at a competitor up the block, and the corner has never been anything else. You order at a window under the yellow and green signs and eat standing at a rail or walking. A dog with mustard and sauerkraut and an order of crinkle fries is the whole transaction.

Daily, 10am to 11pm. Fri and Sat to midnight. Open year round

A boardwalk stand that has been in the same family for more than sixty years, under a hand-painted sign of a giant hot dog and a corn cob. The counter runs corn dogs and clams on the half shell. Knishes and funnel cake come next. Get the soft serve and eat it standing up or on the rail. Nothing here takes more than a few minutes.

Daily in season, roughly 11am to 8pm. Opens with the Coney Island season in late March and shuts for the winter

A Sheepshead Bay fixture on Emmons Avenue facing the fishing boats, run by the Randazzo family since the 1950s after decades in the fish business before that. Clams on the half shell, fried calamari and linguine under the red sauce they bottle and sell. There is a bar you can sit at and eat a dozen without committing to dinner.

Sun to Thu, 11am to 10pm. Fri, 11am to 11pm. Sat, 11am to 10pm

A 1970s fast-food operation on Emmons Avenue that never updated anything, including brown tile and swivel stools bolted to the floor. The jingle still promises cheez on anything you please. You order roast beef on a seeded roll at the counter, get a number, and carry it to a table yourself. It runs to 1am on weeknights and 2am on weekends, which makes it the latest thing in Sheepshead Bay that is not a bar.

Mon to Thu and Sun, 11am to 1am. Fri and Sat, 11am to 2am

A carved bear stands outside the door on Brighton Beach Avenue, which is how people find it. The name means frying pan and a lot of the menu arrives in one, still sputtering. The pelmeni are the reliable order and there is live music on weekends, played loud, mostly for the tables rather than at them.

Sun to Fri, 11am to 10pm. Sat, 11am to 11pm

A halal Uzbek supermarket whose hot bar runs the length of the back, with plov, manti and stewed lamb sold by weight. The samsa comes out of the oven in batches all day and the lamb one is the one to get. It opens at six in the morning and closes at eleven at night, which makes it the most useful set of hours in Brighton Beach.

Daily, 6am to 11pm. Closed Friday between 1pm and 2pm for prayer

The one sit-down restaurant directly on the Brighton Beach boardwalk, with tables put out facing the water in season. Most of the week you walk in and order off a Russian menu. On a Saturday night it turns into a prix-fixe dinner with a cabaret act and dancing, which is a different evening entirely and wants booking ahead.

Mon to Thu, 11am to 9pm. Fri, 11am to 11pm. Sat, 11am to 2am. Sun, 11am to 11pm

The boardwalk outpost of the Tom's on Washington Avenue in Prospect Heights, which has been a family luncheonette since 1936. This one does eggs, pancakes, burgers and lime rickeys at a counter and at tables facing the water. Breakfast runs all day, which is the reason to know about it.

Daily, 11am to 8pm in season. Open about nine months a year and shut in deep winter

Opened in 1997 and built around a tone, the clay Georgian oven that bread gets slapped onto the wall of. The khachapuri comes in five shapes and the adjaruli, the boat with the egg on top, is the one to order if you have not had it. There is a small dining area and a separate bakery counter next door for cakes and pastry.

Daily, 9am to 9pm

Antonio Pero, who had worked the oven at Lombardi's, opened this on Neptune Avenue in 1924 and his family still runs it. There is one coal oven, there are no slices, and the pies come out blistered and uneven. Two things you need to know before you walk over: it is open only on Saturday and Sunday afternoons, and the dining area is no longer set up for sitting, so plan on taking the pie with you.

Sat and Sun, noon to 5:30pm. Closed Mon to Fri