Food in Jamaica

A red-sauce place on Lefferts Boulevard by the Aqueduct that has been doing the same thing for decades. Linguine with white clam sauce, veal, and garlic bread that arrives whether you ask or not, served family style at long tables by waiters who have worked there a long time. No reservations and cash only. You give your name, stand in the entrance and wait your turn.

Tue to Sat, noon to 9pm. Sun, 1pm to 7:30pm. Closed Mon

A Cross Bay Boulevard seafood place open since 1974 and into its second family generation. Baked clams, fried calamari, shrimp oreganata and linguini with clams are the spine of the menu, with a raw bar for oysters. It is a large dining space with a bar at the front, which is where you end up if you arrive without booking. It is the nearest thing to Resorts World that is still serving at eleven at night.

Daily, 11am to midnight

A pizzeria on Cross Bay Boulevard in Howard Beach, run by the same family since 1956, known for a thin crust with a scorched underside from the deck oven. You order at the counter and eat at a table or take the slices out. It is a few minutes past the Aqueduct end of Rockaway Boulevard and it stays open to midnight every night. Bring cash.

Daily, 11am to midnight

A family-run West Indian kitchen on Liberty Avenue since 1990, doing Trinidadian-style roti with curry chicken, goat or channa folded into it. Doubles and aloo pie are the things to eat standing up, and saltfish and bake is the morning order, which is why the doors open at five in the morning. There is a bar attached. You order at the counter and pay before you sit.

Daily, 5am to 8:45pm