Food in East Shore

A surf-shack taco place on New Dorp Plaza by the railway station, the New Dorp branch of a small Staten Island group that started on Forest Avenue. Tacos, burritos and frozen margaritas, ordered at the counter or at a table. Loud, bright, and nobody minds how long you sit.

Mon and Tue, 11:30am to 9pm. Wed to Sat, 11:30am to 10pm. Sun, 11:30am to 9pm

A Cantonese dim sum parlor on New Dorp Lane with a large dining floor and a menu that runs all day rather than only at lunch. Dumplings and buns come off a printed order sheet you tick and hand over. It opens at ten in the morning and holds until ten at night, seven days.

Daily, 10am to 10pm

The New Dorp branch of the Port Richmond ice stand, a walk-up window on Hylan Boulevard with the same long list of flavors scrawled above it. You order at the window and eat standing on the sidewalk or in the car. It runs to half past ten at night in season, later than almost anything else on this stretch.

Daily, noon to 10:30pm in season. Closed through the winter months

A sandwich counter on Hylan Boulevard between Grant City and New Dorp, open from seven in the morning on a weekday. Heroes are built to order at the case, there is a short list of daily specials on the board, and breakfast runs early. A handful of tables inside, most of the trade walking out with a paper bag.

Mon to Fri, 7am to 7pm. Sat, 8am to 4pm. Sun, 9am to 3pm

A Greek seafood place at the lower end of New Dorp Lane, cooking whole fish, grilled octopus and the usual spreads, served family style. There is free parking behind the building, which on this stretch of the island is the thing people mention first. Noon to ten or eleven, seven days.

Mon to Fri, noon to 10pm. Sat, noon to 11pm. Sun, noon to 10pm