Everything we cover in Hollywood, A to Z. Pick a venue for what is on, or a stop for somewhere to be before or after.
Hollywood
Amoeba Music
Shops
The Hollywood store moved two blocks east to a purpose-built space on Argyle in 2021 and brought the used bins and the listening stations with it. Staff still price used stock by hand and write the shelf talkers. Free in-store sets happen on a small stage near the front.
Monday to Thursday 11am to 8pm, Friday to Sunday 11am to 9pm
Hollywood
Boardner's
Drinks
Steve Boardner moved his bar to this address on Cherokee in 1942 and the deco bar and tilework are the ones he put in. Behind it there is an open-air patio that most people walking down the street never see. Saturday nights the back is given over to Bar Sinister, a goth night that has run since the 1990s.
Daily, 5pm to 2am
Hollywood
Burgundy Room
Drinks
A narrow black bar on Cahuenga that opens at 8pm and shuts at 2am, seven days. Loud rock, no food, no daylight. The speakeasy origin story attached to it is lore rather than anything documented. Cards carry a surcharge.
Daily 8pm to 2am
Hollywood
El Compadre
Food
David Castro and Mario Jimenez opened this on Sunset in 1975 and it still runs on red vinyl booths and a mariachi trio working the floor most nights. The house margarita comes to the table on fire. Combination plates arrive fast and the bar does not slow down for anybody.
Monday to Thursday 11:30am to 10pm, Friday and Saturday 11am to 11pm, Sunday 11am to 10pm
Hollywood
Frolic Room
Drinks
A narrow bar wedged against the side of the Pantages, with an Al Hirschfeld caricature mural running the length of one wall and a jukebox where a sound system would be. There is no kitchen and no cocktail list. The neon sign outside is the one on the postcards and the prices underneath it are dive prices.
Daily, 11am to 2am
Hollywood
Groundwork Coffee
Coffee
An eight-foot-wide storefront in a building put up for Wells Fargo Bank, one of the oldest multistory buildings in Hollywood. The company roasts its own coffee and there is a short breakfast and lunch menu. Seating is a handful of stools and a bench outside.
Daily 7am to 4pm, kitchen 7:30am to 3pm
Hollywood
Hollywood Farmers' Market
Outside
Ivar and Selma close to traffic every Sunday morning for a certified growers market started in 1991 by the city council office as a weekly event for residents. Around 160 California farmers and food producers set up, and buskers work the corners. It is run by Food Access Los Angeles, formerly SEE-LA.
Sundays only, 8am to 1pm, year round, rain or shine
Hollywood
Hollywood Forever Cemetery
Culture
A hundred and twenty-seven years of Los Angeles buried behind a wall on Santa Monica Boulevard, backing directly onto the Paramount lot. Self-guided visits are free and you can walk the lake and the mausoleum on your own. Johnny Ramone and Judy Garland are here. Chris Cornell is too, along with a working funeral business.
Monday to Friday 8:30am to 5pm, Saturday and Sunday 8:30am to 4:30pm. Free to walk in
Hollywood
Larry Edmunds Bookshop
Shops
A film bookshop that opened in 1938 and has been at this address on the Boulevard since 1955, holding more than 20,000 books and around 6,000 original posters. There are half a million stills in the drawers behind the counter. It is the last bookstore left on a street that once had a row of them.
Monday to Saturday 11am to 6pm, Sunday noon to 6pm
Hollywood
Mario's Peruvian & Seafood
Food
A Peruvian kitchen in a strip mall at Melrose and Vine, working out of a space with the feel of an old lunch counter. Lomo saltado, seafood fried rice and the citrus ceviches are the orders, and the green sauce on the table is hotter than it looks. Mains run around thirteen dollars.
Monday to Thursday 11:30am to 8pm, Friday and Saturday 11:30am to 9:30pm, Sunday 11:30am to 8pm
Hollywood
Miceli's
Food
Carmen Miceli and his wife Sylvia opened this in 1949 and it is the oldest Italian restaurant in Hollywood. The waiters sing opera and show tunes between courses, which has been the arrangement since the start rather than a later idea. Pizza and the baked pastas are what to order, under a ceiling hung with chianti bottles customers left behind.
Daily, 11:30am to 9:30pm
Hollywood
Musso & Frank Grill
Drinks
Open on the same stretch of the Boulevard since 1919, with red-jacketed waiters and bartenders who mix the martini in a small shaker and leave the rest of it beside you in a carafe on ice. The counter and the bar take walk-ins. Sand dabs and the chopped salad are what people who eat here order.
Tuesday to Saturday 5pm to 11pm, Sunday 4pm to 10pm, closed Monday
Hollywood
Rosy Café
Coffee
The daytime cafe at the Hollywood Roosevelt, rebranded from the Tropicana Café, open 8am to 3pm. The Tropicana Bar beside it runs 9am to 10pm. The pool it looks onto has a bottom hand-painted by David Hockney, and eating here does not require a pool pass.
Daily 8am to 3pm; the Tropicana Bar runs 9am to 10pm